Whether you’re looking to climb indoors at climbing gyms or are eager to explore outdoor cliffs, this guide aims to provide beginners with a comprehensive look into rock climbing techniques. From the importance of straight arms to the subtle art of keeping your hips close to the wall, we’ll explore the gamut of skills you need to become a proficient climber.

The Significance of Mastering Basic Techniques

Understanding basic rock climbing techniques is crucial for anyone new to the sport. Learning these techniques will not only make you a safer climber but also open up the possibilities of advancing your skills and progress through the grades.

As we delve into each technique, we will offer expert tips and links to additional resources to make your climbing experience more fulfilling and safe.

Understanding Climbing Fundamentals: The Triad of Success

In climbing, it’s vital to understand that success isn’t solely dictated by how strong your upper body is. Yes, upper body strength is useful, but it’s only one of the core principles of climbing. The triad that forms the foundation of all rock climbing techniques consists of balance, strength, and technique.

Technique Trumps Sheer Strength

Many newcomers to the sport often believe that climbing requires a lot of upper body strength. While it’s undoubtedly beneficial, technique often plays an even more crucial role. By mastering techniques like keeping your hips into the wall, using straight arms, how to use smaller holds effectively, how to engage your thumbs and jamming in cracks you can climb more efficiently and tackle routes that might initially seem beyond your ability.

Climbing Gear Essentials: What You Really Need

Before you embark on your climbing journey, you’ll need some fundamental gear. A good pair of climbing shoes that offer grip and comfort, a reliable climbing harness for safety, and chalk to improve hand grip are must-haves for any climber. Many people start climbing at bouldering gyms these days, so here all you need are a pair of boots and a chalk bag. Chalk is not essential, but it certainly helps: in drying the sweat from your skin it tightens the grip on the holds.

Sport Climbing vs Traditional Climbing: A Quick Comparison

For the purposes of this guide, it’s important to clarify the distinction between sport climbing and traditional climbing, also known as “trad climbing.” Both are valid approaches to the sport but come with their unique sets of techniques and required gear.

This Guide’s Focus: Sport Climbing Techniques

While traditional climbing often involves the use of removable protection and a more adventure-oriented approach, sport climbing is generally more accessible and ideal for those focusing on technique and quick ascents. Therefore, this guide will primarily hone in on sport climbing techniques to give beginners a solid foundation. We are also focusing here on physical techniques. For mental techniques and resources please see our other blog: Mind Games: Mental Techniques in Rock Climbing

Basic Rock Climbing Techniques: Master the Basics, Climb Efficiently

The Importance of Straight Arms: A Game Changer

You might feel inclined to flex your arms while climbing, thinking it gives you more control. However, this can actually tire you out much quicker. Keeping your arms straight is a cornerstone among rock climbing techniques that can dramatically save energy and increase efficiency during your ascent.

Hips Close to the Wall: The Secret to Efficient Climbing

Another technique that is often overlooked by beginners is keeping your hips close to the wall. By doing so, you are utilising gravity to your advantage, which, in turn, makes your movements more efficient and less draining on your upper body strength. 

Focusing on Footwork: Small Holds, Big Opportunities

Your feet are just as crucial as your hands when climbing, if not more so. Effective footwork is especially important when navigating smaller holds. A misplaced foot can throw off your balance and waste precious energy. Practise using your toes and the balls of your feet to grip the smaller holds tightly. Footwork is the most overlooked climbing technique amongst beginners. Drills can include aiming to place your feet as silently as possible: in other words, slow down your feet placements to maximise both precision and intention.

Using the Drop Knee: Unlock Greater Reach

The “drop knee” is a rock climbing technique that involves twisting your hip and lowering one knee to draw one hip in close to the wall for better reach and leverage. This technique not only enhances your reach but also opens up the possibility of using holds that might otherwise be inaccessible.

Breathing, yes…breathing

Your breath is a good indication of your mental state. Trying to remain calm when climbing is a challenge but very helpful if achieved. It will conserve energy, it allows more effective planning and awareness of the holds ahead, and it makes the whole experience more fun. 

Focusing on your breath and aiming for slow, even and steady breathing can do wonders for your mental state. This in turn will relax your physical body so that only the muscles you need for the climb are activated. If stressed, climbers will tend to “over grip” – using more energy on the holds than that required.

Making the most of the holds

A hold can be used in a multitude of ways. Subtle adjustments of your hands, your fingers, your thumbs, your hips, your feet, can transform a terrible hold into something very useful. Look closely, feel around it. Are you using it in the best possible way? 

Notice below all the possibilities for your feet. There will be subtle and sometimes hidden places that can facilitate the progress of your feet onto the larger more obvious footholds. On a route that requires endurance, finding the best places to rest can be crucial for success. Getting more weight onto your feet takes strain off your arms. With even reasonable handholds you might be able to release your arms in turn and give them a good shake out and hang them low and relaxed. Breathing deeply while doing so can remove some of the lactic acid and give them a sense of renewed strength.

Further Reading and Resources

For those keen to continue their climbing journey, there’s no shortage of excellent resources available. Here are some additional materials to further bolster your knowledge and skills:

• Books: There are numerous books out there. Personal favourites include 9/10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes by Dave MacLeod and The Rock Warrior’s Way by Arno Ilgner. Rock Climbing Technique by John Kettle, Rock Climbing: Essential Skills and Techniques by Libby Peter and Crack Climbing by Pete Whittaker are also highly recommended.
• Documentaries: Films like “Free Solo” or “The Dawn Wall” provide not only entertainment but also insights into the lives and techniques of professional climbers.
• Courses: Look for climbing courses at your local climbing gym or outdoor centres. They provide invaluable hands-on experience.

Keep practising! Your body is your most valuable resource. Putting the time in to learn how to move efficiently and problem-solve these vertical challenges will allow progress way beyond your initial expectations. Learn your strengths and weaknesses and perceptual and learning blind spots. Climbing with others is invaluable for their advice, insight, and of course, their company!