Climbing and Ageing 

How many middle-aged men does it take to change a light bulb?

One morning full of aches this week. It’s drizzling outside so rather than looking through the window at the new day, I scroll through social media with my sore arthritic thumb.

A Joseph Campbell quote is in my feed:

“The problem in middle life, when the body has reached its climax of power and begins to decline, is to identify yourself not with the body, which is falling away, but with the consciousness of which it is a vehicle. This is something I learned from myths. What am I? Am I the bulb that carries the light? Or am I the light of which the bulb is a vehicle?”

Joseph Campbell, The Power of Myth

I am both I want to shout! The bulb and the light are integral to each other! The bulb contains and magnifies the light and keeps it safe. One is not possible without the other. Does the light have validity without the bulb? My bulb is feeling brittle and cracked and my light feels vulnerable as a result. Do energy-efficient bulbs last longer? Maybe. But the light they give off is a bit dim.

Why do I identify so much with my physical skills? My male roles models growing up were a mixed bunch: Clint Eastwood, John Wayne, Dr. Who, John Cleese and Michael Palin, Joe Strummer and Neil Young. The first two led me to identify manhood with being tough and physical. Even at school I was trying hard to be the strongest. Actors gave way to comedians and musicians: their craft was way more appealing, there was an effortlessness and lack of machismo. Their motivation seemed more righteous, their style and intent more integrated. That was the role they were modelling and I liked it.

Every new set at the wall seems harder for the given grade. Perhaps it is me who is changing, not that the setters are increasingly under-grading the routes. Now with a painful shoulder and physio exercises, I’m starting to listen to my body, to look after this brittle bulb. Can I identify more with my light? Perhaps I don’t: I undervalue my intelligence, my insight, my consciousness. Perhaps I am after all, a bit dim, and rather than trying to feel good about myself through the use of a sparkling wit and repartee that I don’t possess, I try to reach the same endpoint by getting to the top of a hard problem. I know it’s hollow really, but these habits and drives run deep, are coded into the electrical wiring.

Injuries arrive as messengers with stories in-built. A sore shoulder tells of over-reaching, of being too in my head (the shoulders are just down there after all), rather than integrating and recruiting the core, the big muscles of the back and using the shoulders to stabilise the movement. I regularly visit a local practitioner of Setai, a Japanese physical correction treatment. Cue popping joints and grimaces as he finds the tight spots and gives them a good nurdling. He talks of imbalances that “switch muscles off”, all up and down the body: a tight neck will alter the strength of individual fingers and hence the balance of the hand, a sore and swollen toe will fire a message up the leg and into the balance of the hips, which again will affect everything else.

It’s a beautiful bulb: to be held carefully and with a reverence for its power. I try to find the balance between the light and the bulb, a sort of knowing of my limits and pragmatism with my efforts and goals, drives and stories. But trying hard feels so good. Dialling up the power and giving my all, burning bright, even if the ultimate price to pay is failure, a light will live on even if the glass lies shattered on the floor. Neil Young sang “It’s better to burn out than fade away”, a line I’ve always liked.

Is it realistic to be climbing when you’re knocking on 60? While the clock does tick, some climbers have rewritten the narrative, proving that age is just a number. After all, mainstream media often portrays rock climbers as young, adrenaline-seeking adventurers. But in reality, age can bring about a sense of maturity, patience, and a different kind of strength — all of which can be beneficial on the climbing wall or rock face. My grades on traditional climbing have reduced – I think this is to do with parental responsibilities and wanting to limit the risk. However, my sport grades have gone up in the last five years. I’m climbing moves as hard now at 57 as when I was 22.

For those who embark on or continue their climbing journey in later years, the challenges can be distinct. Physically, the body isn’t as forgiving. The metabolism begins to slow down, and those fast twitch muscle fibres don’t fire up as quickly as they did in younger days. Recovery from intensive sessions might take longer, and there’s an increased need for thorough warm-ups and cool-downs. Rest days might become more frequent than days on the rock.

There’s a deeper sense of patience, a willingness to listen and learn, and an understanding of one’s own body that younger climbers might not yet have developed. Moreover, older climbers often bring a mental fortitude, honed by life experience, which can prove advantageous. The never-ending sense of your impending doom can give a hunger: to do as much as you can, to tick all those routes, to do 8a before 80, to complete your personal to-do list.

Furthermore, for those intrigued by the sport but hesitant because of age, there are countless stories of individuals who began climbing even later. Watch older climbers – ones who have been doing it for ages. It is often that their technique is solid, not that they are particularly strong. Technique grows with time of course and time is one thing old people have had a lot of! Continuing into your later years is going to be easier than starting in your later years.

For those considering beginning their climbing post 30, this article on our blog offers insights into how climbing is as much a mental game as it is a physical one, making it an age-inclusive sport.

The Science Bit

As we age, our bodies naturally undergo numerous physiological changes. One significant transformation is the alteration in muscle fibres. Our muscles are composed of both slow-twitch and fast-twitch fibres. Slow-twitch fibres, vital for endurance activities, tend to remain relatively stable. However, the fast-twitch muscle fibres, essential for power movements and explosive actions — like those found in many climbing situations — see a decline with age.

These fast-twitch fibres are integral for moments when a burst of strength is required, for instance, during dynamic moves or when holding onto challenging holds. Additionally, as we march through the years, there’s a natural decrease in muscle mass, known as sarcopenia. This reduction in muscle can impact overall strength and stamina, potentially affecting one’s ability to tackle prolonged or more strenuous climbing routes.

However, it’s not all doom and gloom despite the grim reaper tapping a claw on your window. The human body is incredibly adaptable, and with the right training regimen, these changes can be managed, if not entirely counteracted.

Training, even past your prime, can yield remarkable results. For climbers above 30 concerned about diminishing muscle mass, power training becomes crucial. Power training focuses on enhancing those fast-twitch muscle fibres, helping maintain — and even improve — explosive strength.

• Targeted Exercises: Incorporate exercises like plyometrics, weighted squats, and pull-ups. Climbing-specific exercises, such as campus board workouts or dynamic boulder problems, can also be integrated.
• Consistency is Key: While the frequency of training is individual, a general guideline is training 3-4 days per week, allowing ample recovery time in between. Listen to your body; recovery becomes even more vital as we age.
• Cross-Training: Engage in complementary activities, such as swimming or yoga, which can help improve overall fitness while giving specific climbing muscles a break.

For a look into training techniques consider checking out this article on our platform. Work with what you’ve got! Technique becomes more important when you’re old and weak.

Managing Body Weight with Age

One of the features of ageing is a slowing metabolism. The basal metabolic rate (BMR) — the calories one burns at rest — tends to decrease with age. This can lead to an increase in body weight, which, for climbers, can mean a heavier load to lift during climbs. Shifting the spare tyre around one’s middle becomes more difficult with age.

But there’s a silver lining. Managing body weight is a combination of maintaining an active lifestyle and a balanced diet. While the metabolism might slow, staying active, especially with activities like rock climbing, can help counteract this.

• Nutrition: Emphasize lean proteins, whole grains, and plenty of vegetables. Protein is particularly vital for muscle repair and growth.
• Stay Active: Outside of climbing sessions, ensure you’re engaging in other physical activities, even if it’s just a brisk walk. Maintain flexibility with stretching and yoga.
• Monitor and Adjust: Periodically check your weight and adjust your diet or activity levels if needed. It’s easier to manage slight weight fluctuations than more significant ones.

Boulder Problems: Short, intense, and requiring bursts of strength, bouldering offers climbers the buzz of problem-solving. Older climbers might find this style appealing as it doesn’t require prolonged endurance and it can be immensely satisfying to crack a problem. Short, satisfying visits to the indoor climbing gym are important if you have a busy lifestyle with lots of commitments – something that also seems to happen as you age.

Sports Climbing: A more sustained climbing style, sports climbing demands both mental and physical prowess. While it requires endurance, the longer routes offer climbers mental benefits, such as increased focus and mindfulness, and these can be particularly appealing to the mature climber.

Traditional Climbing: This can be where the Trad Dads find their mojo. This is how they climbed back in the dark ages and the traditional values, ethics and places have an appeal all of their own. Many younger climbers and those who have started recently in their later years won’t touch this stuff with a barge pole. Some do though and it is always great to see young climbers out in the UK mountains getting stuck in.

Each climbing style offers its unique set of challenges. However, the mental strength that older climbers bring to the table can be a significant advantage. Whether it’s the analytical approach in solving a boulder problem or the patience in tackling a longer sports climb, the mature climber brings a wealth of experience to the rock. Discover more about different climbing styles here.

Embrace the sport not just as a physical challenge but as a holistic journey that intertwines the mind, body, and soul. Harness the strength built over years, both mental and physical, and you’ll soon find that the world of climbing welcomes you with open arms, regardless of the number of candles on your last birthday cake. Whether you’re tackling boulder problems, scaling cliffs in a national park, or finding your rhythm on an indoor wall, every ascent becomes a testament to the idea that age is not a barrier but a badge of honour. So, lace up those climbing shoes, chalk up those hands, and take on that vertical challenge, proving that in climbing, age truly is just a number.

And do remember to allow the 16-year-old indoor climbing wall staff member to challenge you if your belaying technique is poor. Do not say “But, I’ve been climbing for more years than you’ve been alive!” It won’t cut it. Your rope skills might well have become sloppy. Aim to maintain your beginner mind.